Warm water Underfloor heating has been around for over 2000 years, the concept behind Underfloor heating is very simple, using a much larger area the Underfloor heating pipes generate a much more evenly spread heat source, meaning the system can run at a lower temperature saving you costs on your fuel bills. Underfloor heating acts like a big evenly spread-out radiator gently heating the room from the ground up, this requires approximately 20% less energy to achieve the same level of comfort experienced by traditional radiators. Water Underfloor heating is typically more economical to run when compare with electric underfloor heating and is better suited for heating your entire home or for larger areas.

Yes you can install water underfloor heating on any type of boiler. Just ensure that the boiler is suitably sized to cope with any additional demand or load.

Underfloor heating when installed correctly will be more economical when compared with radiators. Underfloor heating installed in screed with an efficient low thermal resistive floor covering, such as tiles, will cost up to 20% less to run than radiators.

Any boiler that offers the greatest efficiency. Air source heat pumps offer a great efficient alternative to gas or oil boilers.

There are many different advantages to using warm water Underfloor heating, the main one is the energy saved by heating a larger floor space at a lower temperature. Other advantages include the freedom of design as there will no longer be any radiators taking up valuable wall space. Radiators heat the room via convection style heating which is not as efficient, it will mean the warmest part of the room is the ceiling void, it also encourages air circulation which is bad for those with dust allergies. Warm water underfloor heating radiates slowly through the floor and it gives off a much more even heat.

Underfloor heating works in a similar way to radiators. A heat source such as a boiler or Air source heat pump will heat water upon demand. The water will travel to the central Underfloor heating manifold where it will then be distributed into each room (whichever room requires heat). Each room will have its own thermostat for maximum efficiency. When a room calls for heat the thermostat sends a signal to the manifold which will allow the water to flow into the underfloor heating pipework that supplies the room. The warm pipes begin to warm the floor and the heat will begin to radiate into the room.
High output kits are designed to provide a solution for underfloor heating to single zone extensions + conservatories typically installed within a screed or between 50 and 80mm thick. A single loop system can cover floor areas of up to 24m2, any room size over this will require more than one loop of pipe. The manifold setup provides excellent water temperature control, blending the hot water from your heating system down to the safe temperatures used in warm water underfloor heating systems.
Our kits include the electrical controls and valves that enable your warm water underfloor system to operate independently from your existing heating system, in line with current building regulation part L.

For new build extensions and new property developments where the sub-floor is not yet down, the warm water underfloor heating pipework can be incorporated within the cement screeded subfloor, this means that the pipework can be installed directly onto a foil faced insulation i.e. kingspan/celotex. You simply install the pipes and pour the screed on top, its low-cost installation and provides a more efficient heating system. We also supply low profile water underfloor heating systems for heating large areas in existing rooms, meaning that we have a solution for all houses at all stages of development.
Water underfloor heating is cheaper to run than electric underfloor heating. Electric underfloor heating is typically not suited for very large areas or the whole house as you may find the electrically load exceeds your households incoming supply!

Yes, water underfloor heating can be installed in any room on any floor at any level in the property as we now have complete solutions for any stage of build and low-profile heating solutions.
You can install water underfloor heating in screed, between joists, in our Profloor pre-grooved floorboard system or in overlay boards on top of existing floors with as little as 16mm height increase. We really do have a solution for any floor construction.
Water underfloor heating can be supplied via any water heat source such as boilers, Air source or Ground source heat pumps, biomass boilers, log burners with back boilers and thermal stores.

Heating Zones are individual rooms controlled via their own thermostat. Each room may contain multiple underfloor heating loops aka pipe circuits. Each circuit or Loop of pipe can be up to 110metres and cover an area between 17 and 30m2 each, depending on pipe spacing and the heating requirements of the room. Multi-room or multi-zone heating kits are used when you are installing the underfloor heating in more than one room. A Manifold will preferably be located somewhere centrally to the rooms, the pipes will run from the manifold location to each room. Each room will have a thermostat controlling the flow of water to its own room. Full design layouts and material quotes are available from our experienced technical sales team, simply send them your floor plans/layout and they will send you a design and quote back within 48hours.

Our warm water under floor heating is ideal for use in new build conservatories. To comply with the Part L of the new building regulations you must install controls that allow the switching off the underfloor heating when it is not required. As most conservatories are built with a dwarf wall construction there is not much wall space left to integrate an effective central heating radiator system, making our under floor heating the ideal solution all round.

Underfloor heating when installed correctly will be more economical when compared with radiators. Underfloor heating installed in screed with an efficient low thermal resistive floor covering, such as tiles, will cost up to 20% less to run than radiators.

Yes you can have a hybrid system with part underfloor heating and part radiators. Each floor will have its own heating zone valve to enable it to work either together or independently from

Preferably manifolds should be mounted horizontally for ease of installation, however the manifold can be mounted vertically if space is too restricted.

Contrary to what is believed by many you do not need much height for a water underfloor heating system. With our range of low profile systems, you can have a water UFH heating system installed in as little as 16mm of height (including a pre-grooved panel and the UFH pipework). With this low profile range available its rapidly overtaking electric underfloor heating as the more popular choice for refurbishments or renovations.

You may have been provided your flow rates with the underfloor heating design, however if you do not have them, not to worry. The purpose of setting the flow rates is to ensure you have enough water flowing through each circuit and to balance the manifold. It is important to balance the manifold to ensure that some circuits do not receive all of the flow whilst others struggle to get any at all. The same applies to all heating systems including radiators!

Flow rates for 16mm pipe are usually calculated by dividing the length of pipe by 40. So for an 80m coil, you will have a flow rate of 2 Litres per min. To calculate flow rates for 12mm pipe usually a higher denominator is used of 50. So for an 80m coil you would expect a flow rate of around 1.6L/min. The Manifold installation guide explains how to balance the manifolds - you can find these install guides on the following link: Installation videos & manuals

To calculate how much pipe you need for a room, you will need to know several things. The size of the room, the pipe spacing you are using and the distance from the room to the manifold location.
If you have a 10m2 room that is 5metres from the manifold and the pipe spacing is 200mm centres, the calculator will be as follows:
1000mm/200mm = 5 (5metres of pipe per m2 required)
10m2 x 5 = 50metres.
Distance from room to manifold is 5metres, multiply this by 2 for the flow and return and add this onto the pipe used in the room.
50metres + (2x5) = 60 metres of pipe Required.

With water underfloor heating if installing a floating floor such as engineered wood or laminate floor we recommend that you use a low tog and breathable underlay. An underlay provides cushion for the flooring and yet does not block the heat output. We recommend that the Tog value below 0.75 and thickness between 2-5mm.

For locating the manifold, we always recommend that the manifold is located as close to the level that it is supplying, preferably higher than the floor being heated. This is so that the pump is not under too much pressure and also so that the Air can be bled out through the manifold easily. However in sealed heating systems with auto air vents, it is possible to locate a manifold slightly lower than the heated floor area. Mounting it high up in the basement will help to reduce the head loss/pressure on the pump. Please always consult our technical team before making any decisions about manifold locations.

It depends on what type of heating system you have and whether you have any other sources of heating in the property. If you have a combi boiler and you only have underfloor heating in the property, you will not need a motorised valve. If you also have radiators on the same combi boiler, then you will need 2 x motorised valves so that you can control the radiators and underfloor heating independently via their own thermostats.

With a system boiler you may already have radiators and a Hot water cylinder with their own 2port motorised valves, in which case you just need to add one more for the underfloor heating. Speak to our technical team for advice and guidance and even a schematic diagram to help you.

Preferably you would always remove existing floor coverings before fixing the panels down as it is always better to affix to the substrate instead of the top of a tile. However Loflo lite is designed to be installed over existing floors, If you have tiles already down and don’t want to remove them, it is possible to install on top. However please note that if you are fixing the loflo lite panels down with adhesive, the floor must be suitably prepared. The floor will need to be keyed, cleaned and primed before fixing the panels down, you will also need to ensure that there are not any loose tiles.

Yes the loflo lite panels are designed for use with levelling compound, you must ensure that the panels are primed and fixed down correctly as per the installation instructions. You can find these instructions on the following link: Installation videos & manuals